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FLOAT TUBE FISHING FORUM » Float Tubes, Pontoons and Related Equipment Discussions » Float Tube, Pontoon, and Equipment Related Discussions » Rust and pontoon preservation

Rust and pontoon preservation

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1 Rust and pontoon preservation on Wed Sep 03, 2014 8:08 pm

chipmcd


Bobber
Bobber
Still taking out my pontoon on shakedown/tweaking runs.  I've noticed when washing her down, after an outing in the salt, there seems to be an orange residue or rusty powder lining some of the frame connection points and most likely further in (the footbars are the worst.) I can wipe most it off but, it concerns me.  It's not raw metal inside but not painted as well as the outside, either (I'll get pictures up as soon as I can.)

I was thinking of BoeShield (http://boeshield.com/) for inside the frame after letting my air compressor have at it for a while so it'll be dry.  I have a buddy, who's an aerospace engineer at Boeing, but hasn't heard of it.  I asked him to ask around at work to see if it would be the right stuff.  Was thinking of using a nylon 12ga bore cleaner to get it as clean as I can before the first application.

As for the pontoons, I'm gonna try TheAsianGuy's suggestion and go with the Aerospace 303 protectant.  I see a lot of salt residue built up on them even after a half day on the water. He has done some tests that makes me want to try the product.


Fellow pontooners, what do you do to protect from frame corrosion?

2 Re: Rust and pontoon preservation on Wed Sep 03, 2014 8:45 pm

jeffcpr

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Admin
I don't know but what I do know is this PM Vagabond he might have an answer for you on this subject.


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3 Re: Rust and pontoon preservation on Thu Sep 04, 2014 8:51 am

Catman1979

avatar
Bobber
Bobber
I just spray it with WD-40 now and again. Being that it's mineral based, I don't worry about any scent getting in the water, and spooking the fish. It has been workin' out well.



Last edited by Catman1979 on Thu Sep 04, 2014 4:40 pm; edited 1 time in total

4 Re: Rust and pontoon preservation on Thu Sep 04, 2014 10:00 am

chipmcd


Bobber
Bobber
Thanks guys!  Will give those options a try.

(I'm gonna try to search Vagabond's responses on the subject before bugging him.)

5 Re: Rust and pontoon preservation on Thu Sep 04, 2014 3:17 pm

Pavo21

avatar
Junior
Junior
shoot now you got my scared. i just took my toon out for the fist time in the harbor

http://www.inthedeephusea.com

6 Re: Rust and pontoon preservation on Thu Sep 04, 2014 7:36 pm

Vagabond

avatar
Old Timer
Old Timer
Here are a few options other than completely rebuilding your pontoon frame out of stainless steel you can try.

Pontoon frames usually come in thin wall aluminum or steel tubing and are going to fail eventually and most likely at a weld seam or joint as protective coatings there tends to be thinner. Along with the fact that most frames are not sealed or coated on the inside does not help. At the minimum some have had luck just applying a coat of automotive wax to their frame and letting that help in repelling water and aid in drying before corrosion starts. Second would be to find a spray paint in a clear, close color match or a color you don't mind accenting your frame with and giving all the welded joints and seams another coat to seal them.

A more drastic approach would be to have your frame taken to a powder coater and having it all blasted down to the bare metal and then having it recoated, most powder coating shops will put on a thicker and better coating than what ever your frame came with from the factory. Even more drastic and pretty much full proof would be to have a process called Metallizing done to your frame where it is first stripped/sand blasted then sprayed with melted zinc and then have it powder coated.

Also if possible you want to try seal all entrances and exits to your frame to protect the inside. You can spray all you want and pour all you want but no coatings will ever get every nook and cranny inside your frame especially at the weld joints and corrosion will find somewhere to start. I've had luck with using dense foam to plug openings on frames followed by goop or silicone to really seal it.

As far as the pontoons the fabric areas can be treated with the same protectant you use on shoes, I like colemans camp dry as I find the other brands to come off in water and leave a film or residue but colemans doesn't and try to stick with water repelant that does not contain silicone. There is a new product called Rustoleum Never Wet I've had my eye on but havn't tested yet, let you know if I do. The vinyl or pc canvas part of the pontoons I usually wipe down with Meguiers Rubber and Vinyl conditioner or 303 Aerospace Protectant which I also use on my kayak and canoe... both can be found at West Marine.

7 Re: Rust and pontoon preservation on Thu Sep 04, 2014 10:05 pm

chipmcd


Bobber
Bobber
No wonder jeffcpr said to ask you. Answers!  Thanks very much Vagabond.

I was thinking of corking and sealing the frame after getting it as free of the rust as possible. I've never heard of the Colemans; looking into now.

The most outrageous thought i had was vapor deposition of the frame. But I could buy another pontoon before that was done.

8 Re: Rust and pontoon preservation on Fri Sep 05, 2014 10:03 am

Pavo21

avatar
Junior
Junior
what about anodizing?

http://www.inthedeephusea.com

9 Re: Rust and pontoon preservation on Fri Sep 05, 2014 10:43 am

chipmcd


Bobber
Bobber
Pavo21, my frame is steel.  Most of the applications, I've seen or as I understand, for type ii or iii anodizing is for aluminum substrate. Vagabond, please correct me if I am wrong.  Vapor deposition would still be awesome but coating the inside would be difficult and the process, cost prohibitive.

Corrosion is the planned obsolescence built into these pontoons by the manufacturer that we have to live with, I guess. Otherwise, these companies would never sell replacement parts or would be only selling one pontoon to everyone that buys one.  I just would have hoped it didn't start on the first few trips out.

Redesigning my frame would be awesome but I'm cringing at the thought how much a stainless steel frame would cost! Shocked What a Face affraid

10 Re: Rust and pontoon preservation on Fri Sep 05, 2014 11:12 am

Pavo21

avatar
Junior
Junior
yah i gues we will just have to purchase new ones in a coulpe years

http://www.inthedeephusea.com

11 Re: Rust and pontoon preservation on Sat Sep 06, 2014 6:42 pm

Renegade


Bobber
Bobber
Every pontoon I have bought has had stainless steel frame or Aluminum. My boats are 13 years old and granted I don't float ocean water, but these boats do NOT rust.
You do get what you pay for.
I have also been using 303 for 13+ years on the Pontoons.
Vegabond had some KILLER options.

Catman, you don't worry about the fact that it is mineral "OIL"? It is an oil base. I know you are dumping buckets into the water, but you showed concern for the smell.

12 Re: Rust and pontoon preservation on Sat Sep 06, 2014 7:19 pm

Pavo21

avatar
Junior
Junior
Yeah I paid a good penny for mine. Well my wife did so I'm sure mine will last me a good amount of time

http://www.inthedeephusea.com

13 Re: Rust and pontoon preservation on Sat Sep 06, 2014 10:28 pm

Catman1979

avatar
Bobber
Bobber
[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] wrote:Catman, you don't worry about the fact that it is mineral  "OIL"?   It is an oil base.  I know you are dumping buckets into the water, but you showed concern for the smell.

Well, WD-40 is a mineral based (natural) oil. It has been used as a scent attractant by some anglers through the years, primarily trout/cat anglers. Although I have tried it, I don't find it useful as an attractant and have found little to back this theory/practice up. Other however swear by it, I see guys shootin' spoons with it off and on.

As for keeping the metal in good order, it has been working very well! I just hit the connection points every other trip. Once a month, I shoot the insides of the frame as best as I can and let it set in. I am sure I will get an over abundance of rust in a few years, at which point I will just have it powder coated again...

As for the environment, I can't see it even coming close to the amount of oil or gasoline an actual boat motor puts in the water.

14 Re: Rust and pontoon preservation on Sun Sep 07, 2014 7:02 am

Renegade


Bobber
Bobber
I don't think it is [natural].  It is petroleum based.  So a little bit is okay?  
Here is a little fact sheet before others use this:
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15 Re: Rust and pontoon preservation on Sun Sep 07, 2014 2:12 pm

chipmcd


Bobber
Bobber
[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] wrote:Every pontoon I have bought has had stainless steel frame or Aluminum.  My boats are 13 years old and granted I don't float ocean water, but these boats do NOT rust.
You do get what you pay for.
I have also been using 303 for 13+ years on the Pontoons.
Vegabond had some KILLER options.

Catman, you don't worry about the fact that it is mineral  "OIL"?   It is an oil base.  I know you are dumping buckets into the water, but you showed concern for the smell.

which pontoons have you owned?  May have to look into those. Hmmm, Renegade, as in NFO Outlaw "Renegade"?  Good to hear about that 303.  Makes me more confident about the purchase.  My problem is that I will fish saltwater far more than I will freshwater.


As far as I understand, stainless steel and aluminum will corrode... they just happened to be more resistant to corrosion. The frame I have is powder coated steel.

16 Re: Rust and pontoon preservation on Sun Sep 07, 2014 2:37 pm

Renegade


Bobber
Bobber
There are a bunch of choices for frameless which could be a smart move for ocean.
Aluminum will do fine in salt water as long as not in contact with other metal "galvanic corrosion". plus the advantage of lack of weight is making it very popular choice. Aluminum is usually anodized.
Some grades of Stainless Steel may also be considered corrosion-resistant. Aluminium, on contact with air creates a layer of aluminum oxide that protects it from damage.

Like Vegabond hit the nail on the head when he mentioned they do not paint the inside of the frames.
As for boats that have stainless steel frames, the higher priced Outcast and Bucks Bags. NFO are Alcoa 6061 TS65 Aircraft Aluminum that is powder coated.

All metal aside from maybe Gold, Platinum and a few other precious metals will corrode is left sitting in salt, that is why everyone should rinse them off as soon as they come out.
Here in the Rocky Mountains, we have to deal with salt effects on our cars from snow plows Shocked Wink

17 Re: Rust and pontoon preservation on Sun Sep 07, 2014 7:31 pm

Catman1979

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Bobber
Bobber
[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] wrote:I don't think it is [natural].  It is petroleum based.  So a little bit is okay?  
Here is a little fact sheet before others use this:
[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

Phew, well thanks for informing me, as I didn't know I was hurting the environment. I did check that fact sheet though, and it stated "Chemical Name: Organic Mixture". In being an organic mixture, wouldn't be safe to say that it is a better application as to say, a motor that sporadically releases motor oil and gasoline in the water? Also, am I causing any harm to my favorite fishing spots by using an electric trolling motor?

I just don't want to leave any kind of carbon footprint, so let me know what I need to use, ok Smile

18 Re: Rust and pontoon preservation on Sun Sep 07, 2014 7:39 pm

Renegade


Bobber
Bobber
Then use it.

19 Re: Rust and pontoon preservation on Mon Sep 08, 2014 11:57 am

Pavo21

avatar
Junior
Junior
i mainly seeing the issue with people that use their toons in salt water, not so mcuh fresh only

http://www.inthedeephusea.com

20 Re: Rust and pontoon preservation on Mon Sep 08, 2014 11:06 pm

Vagabond

avatar
Old Timer
Old Timer
Sorry for the delayed reply I'm usually away on weekends and can't get to the forum that easily. Chipmcd you are right anodizing is usually the choice for Aluminum and not steel as it has the better I guess you could say pore structure to accept anodizing where steel does not. Only down side is the welds tend to come out a different color than the frame for example if you did your frame in black the welds might turn out dark purple or blue because of the variance in alloy. I have seen anodized steel but it is more for art or sculptures not for corrosion resistance. Also your cork idea was a great one, those neoprene or rubber corks work great and if you get a tight enough fit you don't need goop or silicone. You can get them at most ACE and true value hardware stores or McMaster Carr.

I've built a few stainless frames and although it is stainless it will still rust in areas of the weld or random spots where steel deposits stick to the frame from handling or coming in contact with other steel objects. Only way to prevent that is have the frame electro polished or passivate all the welds. And as soon as you see a rust spot hit it with a stainless wire brush but don't ever ever ever use steel wool!

21 Re: Rust and pontoon preservation on Tue Sep 09, 2014 6:36 am

Renegade


Bobber
Bobber
[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] wrote:Sorry for the delayed reply I'm usually away on weekends and can't get to the forum that easily. Chipmcd you are right anodizing is usually the choice for Aluminum and not steel as it has the better I guess you could say pore structure to accept anodizing where steel does not. Only down side is the welds tend to come out a different color than the frame for example if you did your frame in black the welds might turn out dark purple or blue because of the variance in alloy.  I have seen anodized steel but it is more for art or sculptures not for corrosion resistance. Also your cork idea was a great one, those neoprene or rubber corks work great and if you get a tight enough fit you don't need goop or silicone. You can get them at most ACE and true value hardware stores or McMaster Carr.

I've built a few stainless frames and although it is stainless it will still rust in areas of the weld or random spots where steel deposits stick to the frame from handling or coming in contact with other steel objects. Only way to prevent that is have the frame electro polished or passivate all the welds. And as soon as you see a rust spot hit it with a stainless wire brush but don't ever ever ever use steel wool!



Last edited by Renegade on Tue Sep 09, 2014 7:57 am; edited 1 time in total

22 Re: Rust and pontoon preservation on Tue Sep 09, 2014 6:39 am

Renegade


Bobber
Bobber
[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] wrote:
[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] wrote:Sorry for the delayed reply I'm usually away on weekends and can't get to the forum that easily. Chipmcd you are right anodizing is usually the choice for Aluminum and not steel as it has the better I guess you could say pore structure to accept anodizing where steel does not. Only down side is the welds tend to come out a different color than the frame for example if you did your frame in black the welds might turn out dark purple or blue because of the variance in alloy.  I have seen anodized steel but it is more for art or sculptures not for corrosion resistance. Also your cork idea was a great one, those neoprene or rubber corks work great and if you get a tight enough fit you don't need goop or silicone. You can get them at most ACE and true value hardware stores or McMaster Carr.
I've built a few stainless frames and although it is stainless it will still rust in areas of the weld or random spots where steel deposits stick to the frame from handling or coming in contact with other steel objects. Only way to prevent that is have the frame electro polished or passivate all the welds. And as soon as you see a rust spot hit it with a stainless wire brush but don't ever ever ever use steel wool!




I use to build show bikes and did anodize steel for one. Looked cool, but scratched easy.  My Cardiac Canyon pontoon had an anodized aluminum frame.  It gives it a Candy look.  It held up real well
The Aluminum frames are now powder coated.

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23 Re: Rust and pontoon preservation on Tue Sep 09, 2014 3:20 pm

bodfish


Junior
Junior
Carbon fiber Frames! coming soon!

bodfish

24 Re: Rust and pontoon preservation on Tue Sep 09, 2014 3:28 pm

Renegade


Bobber
Bobber
[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] wrote:Carbon fiber Frames!   coming soon!

    bodfish

I think there already was. I think it was a Rivendell. They had to discontinue it because of the name.
The Carbon Bicycle frames are saweet. Light and strong, but also EXPENSIVE!
Unless it could be done super cheap, I think it could be out of mosts price range but a killer idea.

Frameless...answers all the needs.

25 Re: Rust and pontoon preservation on Tue Sep 09, 2014 3:45 pm

bodfish


Junior
Junior
Hey Renegade,...
I am a huge carbon fiber fan, Light, strong, easy to work with, and getting more and more affordable every day. I like the frameless u boat designs except that they do not provide structural integrity to the craft, something I think is crucial to increasing speed, maneuverability, modularity and safety, to the pontoon. I have been working with tubular designs for a bit, but may move to monocoque as a new idea that may be even better. Lighter still, stronger and simpler... and offers more options for aftermarket modifications. (something we all enjoy, a la' the PVC mod crowd!) Cost is still an issue but as I said it is getting better every day.

bodfish

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